Quiet, enchanting, authentic Le Marche

Le Marche, pronounced ‘lay markay’, is an enchanting corner of Italy, lying between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic coast, on the eastern seaboard. Still relatively unknown as a destination in the UK, it is perfect for those who want to experience authentic Italy, far from the madding tourist crowds. And yet it couldn’t be easier to get to, with direct flights from Liverpool and Stansted to the nearest airport at Ancona.

A year round delight

The region, which covers just under 10,000 square kilometres, is a delight at any time of year. The inland mountainous zones are mostly limestone and are noted for bare peaks, rushing torrents, dramatic gorges and beautiful alpine meadows, which are ablaze with wildflowers and orchids each spring. The highest point is Monte Vettore in the Sibillini Mountains, at 2,476 metres. Winter skiing is available in the small but charming resorts of Sassotetto and Maddalena, but the area is equally renowned for its glorious autumn hues, walking trails and abundant wildlife.

The coast boasts long sandy strands, interrupted by the limestone Conero peninsula, with its dramatic cliffs and sheltered coves. Closest to Villa Saltareccio lies the ‘Riviera della Palme’, named for its thousands of palm trees, and the safe, sandy beach resorts of Cupra Marittima and Grottammare. Ancona, the capital of Le Marche is a natural port dating back to the 5th century BC when it was founded by Greek exiles from Siracusa in Sicily. Together with Pesaro, which is the birthplace of composer Gioacchino Rossini, it is one of the pivotal centres of the coastline.

The medieval highlights of Le Marche are the cities of Ascoli Piceno, Fermo and Urbino, but the foothills are covered with ancient hilltowns harbouring little known historic treasures. They hide natural treasures too, such as the Grotte di Frasassi caves which, with their small lakes, stalactites and gigantic stalagmites, are among the largest accessible caverns in Europe.

Fresh flavours and fine wines

Italian cooking is renowned for its fresh flavours and fine local ingredients. The many delicacies of Le Marche include ciauscolo salami, cheese from Talamello matured in caves, prized truffles from Acqualagna, Sant’Angelo in Vado and Sant’Agata Feltria, casciotta cheese from Urbino, ham from Carpegna and salami from Fabriano.

Among the local dishes are Ancona style dried cod, “vincisgrassi” (lasagne made with chicken livers and truffles), Olive all’Ascolana (stuffed, fried olives from Ascoli Piceno), and “brodetto” (fish stew). Not to mention the abundant, freshly caught and prepared fish, best enjoyed at a waterside restaurant, with a glass of chilled prosecco. The region has 12 DOC wines, the main regional white being the excellent Verdicchio, best quaffed young and cold.

Local interests and activities

There are many activities and adventures to be enjoyed in this region of Italy ranging from fishing, golf and mountain biking to opera, concerts and dance. Or you may wish simply to stay at home, save for occasional forays out for essential local supplies.
Altidona, your nearest village, just five minutes away, is a medieval hilltown with cobbled streets, and panoramic views across vineyards, olive groves and fields of sunflowers, to the Sibillini Mountains and the coast.
The village hosts a range of shops, including butchers, bakers, newsagents, hardware store, tobacconists, pharmacy, fresh pasta shop and mini markets, as well as a bank and a post office. There are four restaurants and several bars and even a take away pizza shop. There is also a small theatre, which has just undergone restoration together with numerous churches and historical buildings.